When picking a harness, it's important to consider the type of climbing you intend to do. Most harnesses are versatile and can be used for indoor gym climbing as well as outdoor sport and trad climbing. Specialized disciplines like ice, alpine, and big wall climbing have harnesses with certain design elements that make them better suited for that activity. The aim for this guide is to explain some basics about harness types so you aren’t hung up by your choices.
Modern climbing harnesses have come a long way compared to the loops of rope around the waist that the old-timers used. Harnesses are designed to be safe, comfortable, and durable.
Sport/gym Climbing: Most harnesses fall in this category. Minimizing weight is not as important as comfortable padding for taking falls and hanging in the harness. These harnesses can be used for climbing longer multi-pitch and trad routes because they usually have plenty of space on the gear loops.
Alpine/ice Climbing: Alpine climbers and ultralight enthusiasts are willing to sacrifice comfort in the padding to reduce weight and bulk. Lighter harnesses may be less durable and may have a shorter lifespan if used often. The reduced padding is not an issue for alpine and ice climbing because climbers take fewer falls and sit in the harness less. The padding material doesn’t absorb water—unlike the padding on common sport harnesses—so they’re good for use on snow and ice. Minimizing weight is a priority, so alpine harnesses can just be made of light webbing to provide the safety function without the comfort of padding.
Big wall Climbing: Climbers on long, multi-day routes can appreciate a more comfortable harness with a wider waist loop and extra padding. When sitting in the harness all day—for multiple days—the wider, more padded straps can help prevent chafing. Additional gear loops provide more racking options for all the extra hardware needed for long routes.
A harness should fit snug and tight. Most harnesses have adjustable waist and leg loops. Look for a harness that fits in the middle of the adjustment ranges so it will still fit with weight fluctuation and with or without added layers. Some harnesses have fixed, non-adjustable leg loops. If selecting one of these harnesses, then make sure the leg loops fit tight around the thighs.
For most climbers getting started, a general sport/gym style harness will be perfect. Make sure the fit is snug and that the waist and leg straps have plenty of room to adjust tighter. Hopefully this helps when you’re picking the right harness for you.