Safety equipment aside—climbing shoes are probably the most important gear item for rock climbers. Most of a climber’s weight is supported by their feet, which interface with the rock through specially developed shoes. Climbing shoes come in different styles with features targeted for specific kinds of climbing. The aim for this guide is to shed some light on different types of shoes so you can start off on the right foot.
Certain features give different styles of climbing shoes an advantage on specific terrain:
-Closure: most shoes use laces, velcro, or a slip-on moccasin design
-Sole stiffness: stiff soles give shoes more support to hold a climber on a tiny edge or wedged in a crack, while soft soles maximize the rubber surface in contact with the rock and are good for smearing on slabs
-Sharp edges: well-defined corners on the toe and sides of the shoe help to not roll off tiny footholds
-Toe downturn: hooked toes and aggressively curved soles give more grip on overhanging rock
-Comfort: being able to wear a shoe all day is important for climbing long multi-pitch routes—stiff or curved soles are not the most comfortable to walk or stand in, and some climbers need to remove their footwear between routes because they’re so painful
As the name suggests, this shoe tries to do a bit of everything. A medium-stiff sole is a good balance between comfort and performance with good hold on small edges while still being soft enough for smearing on slab.
More rubber surface in contact with the rock means more traction for slab climbing. A softer sole is better than stiff here because it spreads out to get the most surface area.
Sometimes climbers wedge their toes or whole feet into cracks. It helps to have a stiff shoe that supports a climber’s weight while standing on a toe tip jammed into a small crack. Velcro laces may interfere with a good foot jam, so lace-up shoes are preferred. Some high-top models offer additional protection for the ankle bone, which can be chewed up in the crack.
For long routes, a shoe that’s comfortable to wear all day while still offering good performance is best. A flat sole may be better here if a route has some slab climbing or a walk-off from the top.
On vertical rock with very thin foot holds, a stiff sole helps support a climber's weight when only the edge of the shoe is in contact with the rock. Sharp edges between the sole and the upper help the shoe from rolling off tiny holds.
High-level sport climbing and bouldering routes are often overhanging. Some climbers at the highest level can even climb completely upside-down. A downturned toe helps feet grip on holds like a hook when flat soles would slide off.
When it comes to selecting the right shoe for you, it’s important to consider what kind of climbing you want to do. If you’re mostly climbing in the gym, then the all-around style is probably a good choice. For someone getting into trad climbing outside, they’ll want a good crack shoe that’s comfortable to wear all day. And, an advanced sport climber on overhanging terrain will benefit from shoes with downturned toes.
Safety equipment aside—climbing shoes are probably the most important gear item for rock climbers. Most of a climber’s weight is supported by their feet, which interface with the rock through specially developed shoes. Climbing shoes come in different styles with features targeted for specific kinds of climbing. The aim for this guide is to shed some light on different types of shoes so you can start off on the right foot.
Certain features give different styles of climbing shoes an advantage on specific terrain:
-Closure: most shoes use laces, velcro, or a slip-on moccasin design
-Sole stiffness: stiff soles give shoes more support to hold a climber on a tiny edge or wedged in a crack, while soft soles maximize the rubber surface in contact with the rock and are good for smearing on slabs
-Sharp edges: well-defined corners on the toe and sides of the shoe help to not roll off tiny footholds
-Toe downturn: hooked toes and aggressively curved soles give more grip on overhanging rock
-Comfort: being able to wear a shoe all day is important for climbing long multi-pitch routes—stiff or curved soles are not the most comfortable to walk or stand in, and some climbers need to remove their footwear between routes because they’re so painful
As the name suggests, this shoe tries to do a bit of everything. A medium-stiff sole is a good balance between comfort and performance with good hold on small edges while still being soft enough for smearing on slab.
More rubber surface in contact with the rock means more traction for slab climbing. A softer sole is better than stiff here because it spreads out to get the most surface area.
Sometimes climbers wedge their toes or whole feet into cracks. It helps to have a stiff shoe that supports a climber’s weight while standing on a toe tip jammed into a small crack. Velcro laces may interfere with a good foot jam, so lace-up shoes are preferred. Some high-top models offer additional protection for the ankle bone, which can be chewed up in the crack.
For long routes, a shoe that’s comfortable to wear all day while still offering good performance is best. A flat sole may be better here if a route has some slab climbing or a walk-off from the top.
On vertical rock with very thin foot holds, a stiff sole helps support a climber's weight when only the edge of the shoe is in contact with the rock. Sharp edges between the sole and the upper help the shoe from rolling off tiny holds.
High-level sport climbing and bouldering routes are often overhanging. Some climbers at the highest level can even climb completely upside-down. A downturned toe helps feet grip on holds like a hook when flat soles would slide off.
When it comes to selecting the right shoe for you, it’s important to consider what kind of climbing you want to do. If you’re mostly climbing in the gym, then the all-around style is probably a good choice. For someone getting into trad climbing outside, they’ll want a good crack shoe that’s comfortable to wear all day. And, an advanced sport climber on overhanging terrain will benefit from shoes with downturned toes.